A Guide to Four Charming and Historic Paris Passageways to Visit

One of my favorite things to do is explore the historic Paris passageways. They are often tucked between busy boulevards and are easily missed unless you’re looking for one. These glass-covered passages feel like small worlds of their own, part history, part hidden gem. Every time I wander through one, I’m reminded that I should slow down, look around, and discover how much more there is to Paris than just all of the tourist attractions.

For me, visiting the passageways is a step back in time and a chance to imagine how Paris used to be. The patterned tile floors, the light that filters through the glass ceilings, the smell of food and coffee drifting from small cafés — it all feels wonderfully old yet very familiar. And yet, these spaces are far from frozen in time. They’re filled with bistros, bookshops, chocolatiers, and specialty boutiques you won’t find anywhere else. Old and new blend together in the best possible way.

A brief history of the Paris passageways

Napoleon’s idea of Modernizing Paris meant demolishing large sections of the city that had been untouched since the Middle Ages. Today’s passageways somehow survived those demolitions. 

Long before the grand boulevards were what made Paris famous, the covered passages were the center of everyday life. Built mainly in the early 19th century, these glass-roofed arcades offered Parisians a clean, well-lit alternative to the muddy, sometimes unsanitary streets outside. With their gas lights and clean mosaic floors, they quickly became gathering places, lined with cafés, bookshops,  and tailors. They were a place where locals could stroll, linger, shop, and socialize. In many ways, they were the first modern shopping centers, but with a charm, an appreciation of architecture, and intimacy that is impossible to replicate in today’s shopping centers.

Four charming passageways

On this particular trip, we visited four different passageways: Cour du Commerce Saint-André, Passage Jouffroy, Galerie Véro-Dodat, and Galerie Vivienne. Each one has its own personality and charm, and together they create the perfect leisurely afternoon in Paris — full of small surprises, beautiful architecture, and a sense of stepping back into a quieter, slower version of the city. As beautiful as they are when bathed in bright sunlight, they are also one of the best ways to spend a rainy afternoon in Paris and not get soaked.

Galerie Vivienne

Passage Vivienne is one of the most famous covered passageways in Paris. In fact, it’s visited by 6.4 million people every year. And when you step inside, you’ll see why. It’s a bright, airy gallery lined with wine shops, textiles, antique books, and cozy cafés. Don’t be surprised when visiting if there happens to be a film shoot or a fashion show happening. It’s a regular occurrence here.

It’s easy to spend an entire afternoon here, wandering from shop to shop or settling into a corner with a coffee. Everything about it feels warm and welcoming, from the mosaic floors to the shopkeepers greeting regulars by name. It’s Paris at its most charming.

Here are a few photos of Gallerie Vivienne decorated for Christmas

Louise Carmen

This is a cute little boutique that will personalize leather-bound notebooks in various sizes that would make a thoughtful gift for someone special. You can visit the site here.

When you’re done exploring Gallerie Vivienne…

Just a stone’s throw away is Palais Royal and also the iconic Parisian restaurant Le Grand Colbert. Since we had eaten at Le Grand Colbert on a previous trip, we opted for lunch at the more casual Bistrot Vivienne, which is connected to the passageway. Good French bistros rarely disappoint. And Bistrot Vivienne was no exception.

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Galerie Véro-Dodat is elegant in that classic Parisian way. It’s graceful, polished, and beautifully preserved. The checkerboard floor tiles, neoclassical details, and softly glowing shopfronts create an atmosphere that feels refined without being stuffy. It’s quieter than some of the other passageways, and that peacefulness makes it perfect for wandering, admiring the architecture, and discovering the kinds of boutiques you won’t find anywhere else.

One of the most famous shops of Véro-Dodat is the Christian Louboutin boutique, which fits perfectly into the passageway’s blend of luxury and old-world charm. Around it, you’ll find antique shops, art galleries, and specialty stores that feel more curated than commercial. It’s the kind of place where you can step out of the busy streets of the 1st arrondissement and instantly feel connected to a part of Paris that still values craftsmanship and beauty in the everyday.

Cour du Commerce Saint-André

The entrance to Cour du Commerce Saint-André is right on Boulevard Saint-Germain. If you were just walking by, you’d think it was just another archway to another building entrance. However, when you walk through the archway, it is truly like stepping back in time. The cobblestones that pave the walkway are original and date back to the 1730s.

Today, the passageway is filled with cafés and bistros where tables spill out onto the cobblestones. Perhaps the most famous restaurant that still exists today is Le Procope, located about halfway down the passage. You can recognize it by the colorful flags that hang out front. This is where Hemingway and many of the great post-World War II writers and philosophers hung out before they moved on to Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots just across the street, but also located on Boulevard Saint-Germain.

Passage Jouffroy

Passage Jouffroy is maybe the most whimsical of the passageways I’ve visited. The glass roof fills the corridor with amazing, filtered light, and the mix of bookstores, toy shops, and old-world boutiques gives it a very nostalgic feeling. It’s a passageway that’ perfect for slow browsing, window shopping, and no real need to purchase anything. It’s just a fun place to look.

Tucked into the back corner of this passage is also a hotel. Originally named Hôtel des Familles, in 1970, it was renamed Hotel Chopin in honor of the famous composer. 

Final thoughts

Whether you visit one passageway or all four, these hidden walkways offer a side of Paris that feels both historic and refreshingly simple. It’s a chance to step out of the rush and enjoy the kind of small moments that make travel memorable—an unexpected shop, a quiet café, or a beautiful, ancient tiled floor. The next time you find yourself in Paris, take a detour into one of these passageways. They’re a reminder that some of the best parts of the city are the ones tucked just out of view.

Here are a few other fun things to do in Paris

• Things to do in the Marais district of Paris
• Here are some of the best shops in Paris
• The most famous flea market in Paris
• The best chocolate mousse in Paris